From ZNP

Day 14: Not as cold, but still chilly. Probably in the 40’s at wake up.

Broke down camp and was on the road a little after 7. I’ve definitely lost my bowl and spoon. I thought I’d left them at my last campsite, but finding my unwashed plate from last night on top of the car pretty much confirms it. Oh well, I’ll get new ones. Just can’t eat soup until then.

Made it to Zion a little before 9 and the parking lot for the shuttle a little after 9. It was full. But if I learned anything at State, its persistence in parking lots pays off. Finally found a couple guys who were headed out but unsure where their car was. I followed them down the line of cars until we came upon their vehicle. I grabbed my stuff then headed to the line for the shuttle.

Took the shuttle to stop 6 – the Grotto, starting point for the famed Angel’s Landing hike. I was fortunate enough to win the permit lottery for the five mile hike. It’s supposed to be strenuous and is recommended to start early to avoid the heat. I care more about avoiding crowds than heat, so hopefully the later start will solve that.

As I got to the trailhead, I stroke up a conversation with another hiker – Sean, from Galway. He is on a cycling tour of the US from San Francisco to New York. He got a permit through the night before lottery. We talked about different places we have traveled and the logistics of biking in America. He did a similar trip through Europe last year.

The hike up to Scout’s Point was smooth. From there those of us who had a permit could continue the climb to Angel’s Landing.

The ascent was steep, up a narrow staircase carved into the rock. There was also a chain that served as a railing.

We became friends with a group of guys in front of us who were all early 40’s and had met in seminary.

There were quite a few people coming down and less going up, so the climb was able to progress quicker as we got higher. The trail is narrow and only one person wide throughout, with a steep drop off in certain parts. Although none of the hikes I’ve done the past couple weeks included such a harrowing ascent, collectively they gave me a great sense of confidence that carried me up Angel’s Landing.

A 360 view of the park was our reward. A lot of the guys called their families at the top, but my cell service wasn’t great and selfishly I wanted to savor the experience myself.

We lingered at the top for 15-20 minutes before heading back down. Sean was insistent on talking to his mother while he had service, as it is her birthday. We bid each other luck on our respective journeys and I started on the descent with the seminary squad.

The trip down was even less crowded but no less challenging than the ascent, but just as fun. This was the longest period of the trip that I had a group to hike with and I thoroughly enjoyed their camaraderie.

We went out separate ways at the bottom, and I took the shuttle to the Emerald Pools trails. This was a short 3 mile trail, whose ascents were not as steep, and views not as grand. It was nice, but a bit of a let down after Angel’s Landing.

Starting to look ahead to tomorrow, I rented some water booties and neoprene socks for the Narrows Hike, before setting up camp.

Day 15: Low 50’s to start the day. Do I really want to hike in water that is close to 60 right now?

Not entirely, but it’s better than fighting the crowds later. I hustle through camp breakdown and drive over to the shuttle parking. I get on one of the first shuttles at about 6:20. It’s not too crowded and you can spot the rest of the Narrows hikers by their rented booties, and walking sticks.

On the walk down to the start a group of us forms including a family of four from Michigan (“Brian”, Lauren”, “Jessica”, and “Brett”) and a young couple from Seattle (“Adam and Kristin).

We started the hike together and the first few steps were absolutely frigid. I felt really good about the investment in the boots and socks.

There were only a handful of other hikers at this point, and the quiet made it easier to appreciate just how special the place is. I. spent a lot of time looking down to keep from falling, but the moments I took to look up were breathtaking. We all felt so lucky to be in that canyon and witness its beauty up close.

As much fun as I was having, the Michigander kids absolutely loved the water and insisted it wasn’t that cold. Their spirit was infectious and paired with the sun peaking over the canyon walls, I was no longer feeling quite so cold.

Brett, rising 5th grader, was the most spirited and really enjoyed talking to Adam and I. He is particularly fond of fishing and was on the lookout the entire hike.

However, all good things must come to an end. Brett and Jessica were tiring and the hike was an out and back affair, so they were forced to turn around the 2.5 hour mark.

Adam, Kristin, and I continued the hike. I was committed to making it to Big Spring, which is as far as you can go without a permit. The various GPS devices were completely thrown off by the canyon. Mine had us at 8 miles, for an 8.9 mile round trip, when we were only 3 hours in. We were unsure how far we had come and how far we had to go. A hiker coming down from Big Spring told us we had an hour to go, so we all continued for another 30 minutes when Adam, and Kristin decided to turn around.

I bid my second farewell of the morning and trudged on. After 30 minutes, I came upon a few hikers lounging by some water that was trickling from the rock face. This was it, the final waypoint on the journey up. I hung out for a few minutes to get some food in me, and talk to a park ranger about the spring and the Narrows.

(Fun fact: the water pouring out of the rock is snow melt from 1,000 years ago. No so fun fact: during the summer months, multiple people a week and sometimes an average of one per day are rescued from the canyon following an injury.)

My stomach and mind now somewhat full, I began hiking back down. I was by myself for about an hour but at various other points joining a group of friends from Colorado and Chicago, respectively. However. none of them could replace the gang from the journey up.

About halfway down I found my friends first seen at Great Sand Dunes. They had gotten a later start, but were planning to complete the whole hike. We took a picture together, and wished each other good luck on each other’s trips. We’re going to some of the same places, but are not likely to overlap again.

The closer I got to the finish, the larger the crowds. Most had no expectations of reaching Big Spring and were content to walk in only an hour or two. The crowds slowed the hike down considerably. I wish there was a lane for all of them and one for those of us coming from farther up, who were much more efficient water hikers, after a trip up the Narrows.

Almost 8 hours in, I could now see the end of the river. The walk back to the shuttle was about a mile on mostly dry concrete, a cakewalk. I talked to a couple from Eugene, who had biked for about 4 hours, but were also impatient with those walking slowly on the path back. We blamed hunger and agreed the shuttle ride back would be a good chance to snack. Unfortunately, it was standing room only and the 45 minute ride back just prolonged the hanger. Finally, we arrived at the Visitor Center and I devoured my remaining snacks, before returning my rented equipment and setting up camp.

Dinner was couscous, pinto beans, and a can of peppers, which proved to be way too spicy for me. The “hot” descriptor on the can should have warned me.

Besides poor attention to detail on food prep, Zion was really good to me, especially the people I met here. 10 parks down now. Looking forward to number 11 and another state tomorrow.